Here is a good physical explanation of how the irimi works against the tantodori yokomenuchi attack. They call it ‘bursting’ but we call it irimi or ikkyo dosa. The atemi in the video is designed to break facial bones. In Aikido, we use a light atemi to just distract the aite in our practice because we aim to just immobilize an assailant without damaging him.

Another difference is that we seek to control the aite without losing him like in this video. Finally, there is a chance the defender in this video can take a snap kick to the groin. Perhaps if his irimi were more to the side it would be safer.

TUNG OIL HISTORY:

Pure Tung Oil was and is one of the first truly “Green” finishes. It is all natural and contains zero VOC’s. Pure Tung oil (China wood oil) is a all natural finishing product that provides a tough, flexible and highly water-resistant coating. It is classed as a drying oil along with linseed, poppy seed, safflower seed, walnut, soybean, oiticica and a few other oils. Although it is relatively new to the Western world, tung oil also known as chinawood oil has been known for centuries to the Chinese, and until this century, China was the main source for the oil. It comes from the seed of the tung trees, Aleurites fordii and Aleurites montana, deciduous trees that are very susceptible to frost damage. This vulnerability has restricted the cultivation of the tung trees to China and South America. Tung oil (china wood oil) received wide application in China: in the building trades as a treatment for both stone and wooden structures; in marine trades as a preservative and water repellant on wooden boats. It is said to have been introduced to the West by Marco Polo. From the 13th to the 19th century, tung oil had only limited use in the West. More recently, tung oil has gained favor over linseed oil for wood finishing because it is faster drying and does not darken as much with age.

PROPERTIES AND CHARACTERISTICS:

A Pure Tung Oil all natural finish is water and alkali resistant offering a protective barrier. A Pure Tung Oil finish will not darken with age as other finishes will. It resists marring, penetrates well, remains elastic and unlikely to check. Tung oil builds quickly, consolidates the wood surface and builds a transparent matte finish. Pure Tung Oil finish will not mildew or bleed like linseed oil when dry which makes it an excellent candidate for outdoor finishes. It should be kept in an airtight container with minimum air space. Pure Tung Oil contains no thinners or driers and has a light nutty odor. A Pure Tung Oil finish mixed with Citrus Solvent is a all natural organic finish that is environmentally safe and food safe.

USE:

The surface should be dusted to remove all loose particles. Alternatively, you can lightly sand the first coat before applying a second. Any filling or staining (water or alcohol stains work best) must be done before the oil is applied. The first coat should be a liberal one, and you can rub it over the wood with your hand using a soft rag. Allow this application to sit for 40 minutes so the oil can soak in. If it completely soaks into the wood, apply another coat. Continue to apply coats until wood is saturated and stays glossy for 40 minutes. Then check for any seeping, and rub this off as well. Let soak in completely over night between applications. Do not allow standing oil on the surface over night . Any standing or puddles oil should be wiped away with clean rags. For woods with very dense thinning with two parts Citrus Solvent to one part oil will help it absorb better. Pure Tung Oil will take 7 to 10 days for a minimum cure and 15 to 30 days for a full cure.

Thinners can accelerate the drying process and greatly improve the penetration by cutting the first coat of oil with Citrus Solvent, mineral spirits or turpentine by 50%. Remember by adding mineral spirits or turpentine, Pure Tung Oil becomes toxic with these substances mixed into it, although the finish produced is not toxic because the driers evaporate.

The number of coats of oil to be applied will be determined by the intended use of the piece. Two to four coats are enough for decorative work, paneling and molding. Surfaces that receive moderate to heavy use or handling could need up to six coats for maximum protection, plus a light renewal coat a couple of times a year. Apply till the surface reaches the saturation point. This will be evident as the surface will not absorb more oil.  Renewal and building coats are quickly applied with cheese cloth, a lint free cloth or old nylon stockings. This process will give you a surface that will stand up to vigorous use and spills: water will bead on the surface.

Pure Tung Oil is recommended for wood finishing of kitchen tables, chopping blocks, wood and concrete counter tops, wood floors, concrete floors, refinishing wood floors, outdoor decks, outdoor furniture, wood siding, log homes both interior and exterior and similar uses. Its non-toxic nature makes it particularly appropriate for children’s toys and furniture. It gives good protection to wood paneling and molding.

Pure Tung Oil’s matte finish will do nicely on certain pieces of furniture, but if a glossy finish is preferred you will need to buff and wax the finish, or use polymerized tung oil or a formulated tung oil based product.

We have found tung oil to be a valuable helper in the workshop. It adheres very well to metal, and a light coat rubbed onto tool steel is an effective rust inhibitor. Wooden handles will also benefit from the occasional coat.

TEMPERATURE:

Pure Tung Oil should remain above freezing during and after application for a period of 10 to 15 days. If freezing temperatures do occur it is possible for the fat in the oil to rise out of the oil and deposit on the surface. The warmer the temperature the faster the oil will cure however direct sunlight baking a surface after a “fresh” application can quickly polymerize the oil. Resulting in a dry rubbery frosted appearance or a distinctly more glossy finish then the surrounding area.

STORING MATERIAL:

Pure Tung Oil should be stored in moderate temperature, not to freeze and not hot places like attics. It should also be stored out of direct sunlight like a mildly heated basement area. A mixture of Pure Tung Oil and Citrus Solvent should be stored in the “White” Citrus Solvent container. These are treated to hold the Solvent for optimum storage.

REFERENCE:

Gunstock Finishing and Care by Donald Newell, Bailey’s Industrial Oil and Fat Products – Vol. 1 – 4th edition.1

1. From http://www.realmilkpaint.com/oil.html [↩]

裏は苦手の技だ。。。けれど、五級の審査で出来ないといけない技のひとつ。

この日習った重要な点は、足さばき。正面打ちを、体を開いてかわして(入り身）その、前足の親指の付け根を

軸にして、転換。

次は、表と同じく肘をしっかりととらえる事。その時に、肘が自分の正面（腹の前か）に来るように保つこと。

で、転換しながら肘を真下に押さえ込むように、切り込んで行く。

夏から練習している、この技。。。。まだまだ完成しません。

この日習った重要な点は、まず肘をしっかりととらえる事。この際、手首の方はむしろ掴まず、手刀で押さえる程度。

次は肘をとらえた後、相手の顔正面に向かって押し込んで行く事で、受けは重心を崩す。

しっかりと、受けの重心を崩してから、そのまま肘を押し下げて行けば、受けは反撃する余裕がない。

あくまで、手首側は補助としてあるのみ。

初め、体の変更の際に曲げた手首に向かって踏み込むように教わったのだけれど、それは丹田や気の流れが分かりにくい

初心者向けの簡易的な説明だったそう。

改めて、言われた通り曲げた手首を腹の前に保ったまま、転換をしようとすると中々上手く行かない。

手首がぶれないよう、腹の前からずれないように保つことが、まず一点重要。

後は、受けの力の流れをどうやって変えるかが、次に重要な点。

一回だけだけど、（偶然か？）この方法で上手く行った時は、初心者向けのやり方でやった時よりもずっと効果的

で力強い体の変更が、自分の力をあまり使わないで出来た。

それは、すごく面白い瞬間だった。