My hakamas are usually hanging at Hombu. I wash them often enough, but one day it occurred to me that there is a better way to fold a hakama for hanging it on a hanger. Instead of doing one of the several fancy ties that look pretty, it is simpler and easier on the himo to run all four of them down the length of the hakama and then fold them back on themselves – the long ones, anyway. Run them down the sides such that the initial side folds cover them. This way they are secure when doing the lengthwise fold(s). A stiff hanger in the middle will leave just one crease instead of two after the traditional fold into a square. The hakama can them hang, air out, dry, and not ferment1.

1. if not worn often enough [↩]

Every other day I am experimenting with different ways to put on a hakama, different ways to tie the straps, different heights to put the obi at, to use a bow or to let the straps dangle, etc.. Here are some ways I have found.

One way to put on a hakama

[Source: http://www.markka.it]

Wear hakama, one method

Wearing hakama, another version

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dzZCLwyOL7Q

Thank you Andrew for the links!

Here is one way to fold a hakama with the himo on top of the koshiita1.

I like this way better than the version where one flips the hakama over to tie the strings because it is easier to put it on a hanger at Hombu.

Folded hakama from below's instructions

One method, part 1

1. Source: http://www.h5.dion.ne.jp/~aiki-dou/newpage18.html [↩]

Here is an animation and a step-by-step method for folding and tying a hakama. This tie has been called the “butterfly tie” by some people. I don’t know it’s name or significance, but it is the usual folding and tying method I have seen around me. It is nice because you can pull two straps and the whole hakama flies open, ready to wear. There is a hint this might be a feminine tie, but I was shown another way to tie the hakama himo that look strong and confident here.

Folding the hakama: the strings

Folding hakama step-by-step

This is now my favorite hakama tie, principally because it looks masculine and no one else does it… yet. Thank you Takashi for showing my your unique hakama tie.

Takashi's Hakama Tie

In shopping for a sturdy bokken for keiko, I was bombarded with so many options my head felt as if it were trapped in the dizzying spinning just prior to a great iriminage. I knew I wasn’t interested in straight oak; while sturdy enough, I can’t say I had faith in a traditional oak bokken (seeing so many fall by the wayside or into a fireplace as kindling). Eventually, and after much research, my quest led me to the cyber-doorstep of Kingfisher Woodworks (www.KingfisherWoodworks.com)

Brad, and the team at Kingfisher, hand crafts each weapon, whether it be a perfectly sized Jo, or one of 8 (or more) bokken. With 5 grades of American Hickory (a wood that actually TEMPERS and strengthens over time), there is a strong, resilient, and unique weapon for every practitioner of aikido, kenjitsu, iaido, or any other stick-swinger out there.

Once my bokken and jo arrived, I couldn’t wait to get them into my home dojo. Aside from the myriad of compliments on the beauty of the weapons, their performance was outstanding. Having used traditional white oak, and many other woods for my training weapons over the years, these actually felt different. While having a solid heft and weight, the jo glided through my hands as if it were a smooth sanded pool cue, and the bokken was, simply put, a work of art.

If you’ve never heard of these folks, check out their site (listed above) or watch The Last Samurai. All the bokken you see in the movie were fashioned by Brad and the Kingfisher team.

While the cost may be a bit higher than traditional bokken, the quality you’re receiving is beyond compare. My personal recommendation would be for any 3rd-1st kyu to get one of the entry level woods (grades 3 or 4), 1st-3rd dan, a grade “5″, and 4th dan and higher, invest in a gorgeous hand-cut and carved (no sandpaper) weapon of grade “6 or 7″.

TUNG OIL HISTORY:

Pure Tung Oil was and is one of the first truly “Green” finishes. It is all natural and contains zero VOC’s. Pure Tung oil (China wood oil) is a all natural finishing product that provides a tough, flexible and highly water-resistant coating. It is classed as a drying oil along with linseed, poppy seed, safflower seed, walnut, soybean, oiticica and a few other oils. Although it is relatively new to the Western world, tung oil also known as chinawood oil has been known for centuries to the Chinese, and until this century, China was the main source for the oil. It comes from the seed of the tung trees, Aleurites fordii and Aleurites montana, deciduous trees that are very susceptible to frost damage. This vulnerability has restricted the cultivation of the tung trees to China and South America. Tung oil (china wood oil) received wide application in China: in the building trades as a treatment for both stone and wooden structures; in marine trades as a preservative and water repellant on wooden boats. It is said to have been introduced to the West by Marco Polo. From the 13th to the 19th century, tung oil had only limited use in the West. More recently, tung oil has gained favor over linseed oil for wood finishing because it is faster drying and does not darken as much with age.

PROPERTIES AND CHARACTERISTICS:

A Pure Tung Oil all natural finish is water and alkali resistant offering a protective barrier. A Pure Tung Oil finish will not darken with age as other finishes will. It resists marring, penetrates well, remains elastic and unlikely to check. Tung oil builds quickly, consolidates the wood surface and builds a transparent matte finish. Pure Tung Oil finish will not mildew or bleed like linseed oil when dry which makes it an excellent candidate for outdoor finishes. It should be kept in an airtight container with minimum air space. Pure Tung Oil contains no thinners or driers and has a light nutty odor. A Pure Tung Oil finish mixed with Citrus Solvent is a all natural organic finish that is environmentally safe and food safe.

USE:

The surface should be dusted to remove all loose particles. Alternatively, you can lightly sand the first coat before applying a second. Any filling or staining (water or alcohol stains work best) must be done before the oil is applied. The first coat should be a liberal one, and you can rub it over the wood with your hand using a soft rag. Allow this application to sit for 40 minutes so the oil can soak in. If it completely soaks into the wood, apply another coat. Continue to apply coats until wood is saturated and stays glossy for 40 minutes. Then check for any seeping, and rub this off as well. Let soak in completely over night between applications. Do not allow standing oil on the surface over night . Any standing or puddles oil should be wiped away with clean rags. For woods with very dense thinning with two parts Citrus Solvent to one part oil will help it absorb better. Pure Tung Oil will take 7 to 10 days for a minimum cure and 15 to 30 days for a full cure.

Thinners can accelerate the drying process and greatly improve the penetration by cutting the first coat of oil with Citrus Solvent, mineral spirits or turpentine by 50%. Remember by adding mineral spirits or turpentine, Pure Tung Oil becomes toxic with these substances mixed into it, although the finish produced is not toxic because the driers evaporate.

The number of coats of oil to be applied will be determined by the intended use of the piece. Two to four coats are enough for decorative work, paneling and molding. Surfaces that receive moderate to heavy use or handling could need up to six coats for maximum protection, plus a light renewal coat a couple of times a year. Apply till the surface reaches the saturation point. This will be evident as the surface will not absorb more oil.  Renewal and building coats are quickly applied with cheese cloth, a lint free cloth or old nylon stockings. This process will give you a surface that will stand up to vigorous use and spills: water will bead on the surface.

Pure Tung Oil is recommended for wood finishing of kitchen tables, chopping blocks, wood and concrete counter tops, wood floors, concrete floors, refinishing wood floors, outdoor decks, outdoor furniture, wood siding, log homes both interior and exterior and similar uses. Its non-toxic nature makes it particularly appropriate for children’s toys and furniture. It gives good protection to wood paneling and molding.

Pure Tung Oil’s matte finish will do nicely on certain pieces of furniture, but if a glossy finish is preferred you will need to buff and wax the finish, or use polymerized tung oil or a formulated tung oil based product.

We have found tung oil to be a valuable helper in the workshop. It adheres very well to metal, and a light coat rubbed onto tool steel is an effective rust inhibitor. Wooden handles will also benefit from the occasional coat.

TEMPERATURE:

Pure Tung Oil should remain above freezing during and after application for a period of 10 to 15 days. If freezing temperatures do occur it is possible for the fat in the oil to rise out of the oil and deposit on the surface. The warmer the temperature the faster the oil will cure however direct sunlight baking a surface after a “fresh” application can quickly polymerize the oil. Resulting in a dry rubbery frosted appearance or a distinctly more glossy finish then the surrounding area.

STORING MATERIAL:

Pure Tung Oil should be stored in moderate temperature, not to freeze and not hot places like attics. It should also be stored out of direct sunlight like a mildly heated basement area. A mixture of Pure Tung Oil and Citrus Solvent should be stored in the “White” Citrus Solvent container. These are treated to hold the Solvent for optimum storage.

REFERENCE:

Gunstock Finishing and Care by Donald Newell, Bailey’s Industrial Oil and Fat Products – Vol. 1 – 4th edition.1

1. From http://www.realmilkpaint.com/oil.html [↩]

At least three of us students at Masa Kokoro have trained in Tokyo, Japan and got Iwata Gis. Iwata Shokai is just minutes from Hombu dojo in Wakamatsu-cho, and is the official supplier to Hombu. Iwata Shokai home page.

Gi

Iwata Gi

Obi

Iwata Black Belts

Bokutou (bokken in North America)

Iwata Bokutou

Iwata Trademark

Here is a paper by Sander van Geloven about how to impregnate your wooden weapon with linseed oil and how to brand your initials into it.

Wooden Weapons PDF with pictures.